Nicaragua is a popular destination among surfers. The waves are good and the long-stretched beaches on the Pacific Coast offer many surf breaks. Close to Costa Rica, also a country known for its good surfing conditions, San Juan del Sur is found. San Juan del Sur has no waves, it used to be an old fisher town but grown to a popular tourist and party destination. It has some nice restaurants, cafes, bars, shops, and a long-stretched beach.
How to get to Playa Maderas, San Juan del Sur?
Most transport going North or South in Nicaragua stops in Rivas. In Rivas you can take the local bus to San Juan del Sur or take a taxi, it is not that far. On my way to Nicaragua I came from Costa Rica, shuttle busses from Caribe Shuttle offer direct transport including border transfer, from Tamarindo to San Juan del Sur (60$ ~6 hours). From Granada you can take a taxi (40$, 1.5 hours) or a shuttle (25$, 2.5 hours). San Juan del Sur is a popular stop in Nicaragua so you will get here easily.
To get to Playa Maderas from San Juan del Sur and the other way around, you need to have a 4×4 truck. It is a dirt road with a lot of bubs, stones, and some hills as well. That makes it not quite easy to travel between the village and the surf beach. Casa Oro Eco Hostel offers shuttles (20 minutes, 4$ one way) at a regular timetable, which makes it more convenient. Or if you are a dare devil and drive a motorbike yourself, that could be a possibility too.
From Playa Maderas I traveled directly to San José, Costa Rica. I bought a 32$ online TransNica bus ticket, with boarding at La Virgen. La Virgen is a town at the road close to the border town of Peñas Blancas. All I knew that the bus left at 9:00 AM from Managua, so had no time when the bus will stop at La Virgen bus stop. I tried to contact the bus company for a time reference, but no response on phone, email, and WhatsApp. I was 2 hours too early, the bus arrived around 11:30 AM, better safe than sorry. The border crossing took a long time with a full bus at mid-day. I arrived at 20:00 PM in the Transnica Terminal in San José.
My suggestion; book an early shuttle to Liberia, Costa Rica and take a regular bus to San José; probably much faster.
Make a wise decision if you want to stay in San Juan del Sur or stay in Playa Maderas
7 reasons why you should stay in Playa Maderas?
I made the choice not to stay in the village of San Juan del Sur but in the more remote area of Playa Maderas. Playa Maderas was my last stop before flying back from Costa Rica and wanted to chill, surf and working on my tan. I booked an incredible cabana at the Buena Vista Surf Club; ~75$ p.n. including amazing breakfast. I doubted a lot while planning my trip to Nicaragua, where to stay in the village of San Juan del Sur or in Playa Maderas. After my visit, I knew I made the right decision to stay at Buena Vista Surf Club and in Playa Maderas!
1. The View
Buena Vista Surf Club, it’s all in the name a Buena Vista it is! The view is breathtaking, first the lush green treetops of the forest and then the turquoise waters of the Pacific. Take into account to get a good view you need to hike up; the road is dirty and steep at some points. A good exercise but I would not walk it with my surfboard, too tricky for me. The sunset is also stunning to watch from the infinity deck and imagine doing your yoga class in the early morning at the same deck with that spectacular view.
2. The Accommodation
The wooden cabanas of Buena Vista Surf Club are simple and basic but with all the comfort you need. Good beds including mosquito net, shower (heated by the sun), natural breeze so didn’t miss an air conditioning, fresh white sheets, and towels, safe and lock. The wood is natural painted and gives a good vibe in the cozy room. Not much details or decoration, but all you need is the view. In total there are six cabins with one huge main area with an infinity deck with couches for lounging. Of course there are other accommodations in Playa Maderas, heard good stories of Hush Maderas which offer great food as well (Taco Monday). Selinas is a bit further away from the beach.
Be Aware: You are in the middle of the jungle; you could run into scorpions, spiders, and other animals, but none are really dangerous.
3. The Surf
The beach of Playa Maderas is known for the surf. If you book surf lessons in San Juan del Sur they will come to this beach. You can rent your boards here as well, which I did. The rent is 10$ per day per board. The shops at the beach offer a wide range of surfboards. I surfed most of the time at the left corner, kind of point break, but you can surf at the whole beach.
Be Aware: there are some rock formations so check with the locals where you can surf.
4. The Beach
The beach offers some places where you can drink and eat like Maderas Sunset Bar. On the beach you can rent a chair and umbrella too. I haven’t done that, was working on my tan remember. Most of the time I walked all the way over to the end of the bay to Playa Mayagual, here you can chill in a hammock with a cold drink at Juanita’s Kitchen. This is the quieter part of the bay, so check it out!
5. The Vibe
Playa Maderas has a nice surf vibe. There are yoga retreats in the area as well. The sunsets are amazing with the shark rock formation on the beach. So perfect to chill and spent my last days of my traveling here. And if you want the comfort and party of the San Juan del Sur, it is only a 30-minute bumpy ride away.
6. The Family Feeling
At Buena Vista Surf Club it felt a bit like a little family. The included breakfast was at 9:00 AM, with everybody together at a big table. They offer dinner for 15$ at the well, which were really delicious and very convenient with not too many eatery options nearby. Due to the family style meals I was enabled to get to know other guests better, shared travel stories and made new friends.
7. The Stunning Sunsets
The sunsets are stunning at Playa Maderas!! I loved the vibe on the beach with the bars where you can have a sunset drink or a sunset surf! The fishermen come to the beach to catch the next catch of the day. The temperature is comfortable for a long walk or hire a horse to do some horseback riding.
Where to eat and drink in Playa Maderas?
Before heading to Playa Maderas, I had a couple of hours in San Juan del Sur. Perfect for a coffee and breakfast and exploring this lively fisher town.
I was told to go to the Ding Repair Café and indeed that was a good recommendation. This trendy place reminded me of Bali. The place has good styling, great feel, hip people, good food and cappuccino. I saw a whole digital nomad area as well, perfect I image. Ding Repair (don’t mistake it a surf repair shop) hosts Skate Nights with dinner every Thursday, I did not go but heard good stories about this event.
The Maderas Café: behind the beach of Playa Maderas a nice café with coffee, juices, and a small breakfast and lunch menu. Next to the dirty road is a challenging spot but it is a cool place! Loved the tableware they use. Perfect spot to chill in the shade after a surf.
Machete: is the hot spot in the area! A must visit when you are in Playa Maderas, but I found out that they come all the way from San Juan del Sur for the Friday Pizza Night! The best Pizza (20$) and a great atmosphere with live music. The crowed is mixed with locals, tourists and foreigners that live here. The restaurant offered transport from Buena Vista and back, which was absolutely necessary. Be on time and order in time, there could be a real waiting line for the Pizza’s but is definitely worth the wait!
Juanita’s Kitchen: On the far end op Playa Maderas or even Playa Mayagual. Perfect to chill in one of the hammocks during the day and enjoy the beach. I had a delicious ceviche here; I loved this place!!
Maderas Sunset Bar: At Playa Maderas, perfect for a drink and watch the sunset.
I loved my last days of the holiday here at Playa Maderas. From here the bus to San Jose, Costa Rica and then back to Amsterdam. Don’t miss this gem in Nicaragua!!
Where are you traveling to next; to Isla de Ometepe or Granada?
