Many travelers come to this eastern part of Guatemala for the boat journey between Livingston and Río Dulce. The route takes you through tropical rainforest, green riverbanks and the wide waters towards Lake Izabal. My own trip started in Belize. I arrived in Livingston by boat, stayed one night in town and continued along the Río Dulce, stopping at two jungle lodges before traveling on towards Honduras. Livingston Guatemala feels very different from the rest of the country, and I was really looking forward to the river journey. I love being on the water!!
Transport to Livingston Guatemala and Río Dulce
You can reach Río Dulce by road, but Livingston has no direct road access, so the final part is always by boat. I traveled from Placencia in Belize to Punta Gorda and took a speedboat across the Caribbean Sea to Livingston. The crossing took around 45 minutes. A direct boat from Punta Gorda to Livingston costs around USD 55 per person. Check the departure day and time before traveling because schedules can change.
Arriving from Belize? Do not forget to get your Guatemala entry stamp in Livingston. The immigration office is a short walk uphill from the harbor.
Livingston is also connected by boat with Puerto Barrios and Río Dulce. For the journey between Livingston and Río Dulce, colectivo boats leave from the main dock. The full trip costs around Q125 per person and takes roughly 1.5 to 2 hours. Morning and afternoon departures are available, but check the times locally before your travel day. Private boats are another option, although they quickly become expensive when you are traveling alone. You can also check Livingston to Río Dulce transport on 12Go before your trip.
Things to do in Livingston Guatemala
Livingston felt very different from the other places I visited in Guatemala. The town sits on the Caribbean coast where the Río Dulce reaches the sea, and the Garifuna culture gives it a different atmosphere from places such as Antigua or Flores. Walk through the streets and you will soon notice the fishing boats and dried fish. You can smell them too. I spent my time walking around town and enjoying the Caribbean atmosphere. The beaches did not make it onto my itinerary, so I cannot judge those from personal experience.
I did make time for Tapado. This local fish and seafood soup with coconut milk is one of the dishes to try in Livingston. I had mine at Happy Fish Restaurant and would definitely order it again if you enjoy seafood.
Where to stay in Livingston Guatemala
I stayed one night at Casa Escondida, up the hill from the waterfront. The service, breakfast and host were great, and my room had a beautiful view over the river mouth with sailing boats anchored below.
Double rooms are roughly USD 50–70 per night depending on your dates and room type. After traveling in from Belize, it was a good place to relax before continuing along the river. If you have enough time, stay a little longer in Livingston instead of arriving and leaving again the next morning. Check Booking.com or Expedia for rooms and prices for your dates.
Boat trip from Livingston to Río Dulce
This was the part I had really been looking forward to. The first stretch from Livingston towards Río Dulce takes you between green riverbanks covered in tropical rainforest. It reminded me of the boat journey through Cañón del Sumidero near San Cristóbal de las Casas in Mexico. I love to be on the water!! Instead of taking the boat all the way to Río Dulce town, my first stop was Hotelito Perdido, around thirty minutes from Livingston. Tell the boat captain where you are staying before departure. Hotelito Perdido can be reached by the public boat and the fare from Livingston is around Q60 per person.
Staying at Hotelito Perdido on Río Dulce
Hotelito Perdido means “The Lost.” The lodge is hidden in the mangroves along Río Lampara, a small side river of the Río Dulce. There are no roads here, so you arrive by boat. My bungalow was sooo cool. It was one of the coolest places I slept during this trip and gave me the jungle feeling I was hoping for. Hot water in such a secluded place was a nice surprise too.
Private rooms and bungalows start at roughly USD 25–30, with larger riverfront bungalows costing more depending on the room and number of guests. One of my favorite parts was the shared vegetarian dinner by candlelight. Everyone ate together, which made it easy to meet other travelers and hear their stories. Breakfast was another winner for me: eggs, fruit and pancakes and do not forget the coco cookie!
Unfortunately, I stayed only one night and had to take an early boat the next morning. Stay longer if you want to kayak, visit waterfalls, look for hot springs or explore more of the small rivers around the lodge. Kayaks are an important way to get around here besides motorboats. I really loved this friendly, relaxed jungle hideaway and would stay more than one night next time.
Continue by boat to Río Dulce Guatemala
Hotelito Perdido arranged my onward boat towards Río Dulce. The journey costs around Q110 per person, depending on the number of passengers, and takes about an hour. After Hotelito Perdido, the river becomes much wider and almost starts to feel like a lake. Water lilies appeared everywhere, and closer to Río Dulce I started seeing more large yachts, sailing boats and luxury houses along the water.
Where to stay around Río Dulce Guatemala
Río Dulce town is busy, especially around the main road and bridge where buses and trucks pass all day. I would not choose a hotel directly beside this road if you are looking for a quiet stay.
Look for accommodation along the river instead. There are nice jungle stays only a short boat ride from town.
Before heading to my hotel, I arranged my bus ticket for Honduras. The tourist information office near the harbor kindly let me leave my suitcase there and helped arrange the boat to Dreamcatcher Eco Lodge. The boat ride took only about ten minutes. I slept in a modern suite surrounded by jungle, and the restaurant was very good too. The chef cooked French food and clearly knew what she was doing. The next morning the howler monkeys woke me up before breakfast beside the river.
Rooms at Dreamcatcher are generally around USD 80 and up depending on dates and room type. Check Expedia and look carefully at the location before booking. Some of the nicest places around Río Dulce are reached by boat.
Finca Paraíso near Río Dulce
If you have more time, visit Finca Paraíso near Río Dulce. The main attraction is a hot waterfall that flows into a cooler river below. Entrance is around Q20 per person. I did not have time to visit it myself, but it is a good extra stop if you have another day around Río Dulce.
Traveling from Río Dulce to Honduras
After Río Dulce, my journey continued towards Copán Ruinas in Honduras. I traveled by bus towards the El Florido border and changed transport for the final part to Copán. Bus companies and schedules can change, so arrange this journey locally a day before leaving. If your accommodation is only reachable by boat, check that the first boat gets you into Río Dulce in time for your bus or shuttle.
Is Livingston Guatemala worth visiting?
For me, yes, especially together with the boat journey along Río Dulce. I liked walking around Livingston, eating Tapado and getting a taste of the Caribbean side of Guatemala, but the river and jungle lodges were my favorite part. Hotelito Perdido in particular was one of those places where I immediately wished I had booked another night.
Let Me Inspire You Takeaways
Take the boat between Livingston and Río Dulce and stay somewhere along the river instead of only passing through. Casa Escondida worked well for my night in Livingston, while Hotelito Perdido was my favorite jungle stay. Arrange important boat and bus connections beforehand, especially when your hotel is only reachable from the water. And if Hotelito Perdido is on your route, do not make my mistake; stay longer than one night!
Where next: Flores and Tikal or Copán Ruinas?
Staying in Guatemala? Continue towards Flores Guatemala and Tikal Guatemala for Lake Petén Itzá, Maya temples and my unforgettable sunrise experience. Heading into Honduras? Continue across the border to Copán Ruinas, which was exactly where my own journey went next.
