Coming from Labuan Bajo? Read my previous blog about the road from Labuan Bajo to Bajawa first. It brings you from the busy harbor town into the cooler mountains of Flores, before this route continues toward Riung. The route from Bajawa Flores to Riung is one of those travel days where the road is not just transport. You start in the cool mountain air of Bajawa, visit Bena Traditional Village, take a warm break at Soa Mengeruda Hot Spring and end near the quiet coast of Riung.
Leaving Bajawa with a view of Gunung Inerie
Leave around 8:30 AM, so the day does not feel rushed. Start with breakfast in Bajawa. At Madja Edelweiss Homestay I had a pancake, fresh juice and tea before leaving. My daily cappuccino had to wait for Bali again, but this was a good start too. Iwan was my driver for the entire route, which made the trip even nicer. He knows the roads, the villages and half of the people along the way. That gives a travel day like this a relaxed feeling, especially when the route later gets a bit rougher.
From Bajawa, drive around 45 minutes toward Bena Traditional Village. Make a short stop along the way for the view of Gunung Inerie. This volcano is one of those views that makes Flores feel powerful and calm at the same time. Maybe it is because I come from a flat country, but volcanoes always feel special. Gunung Inerie rises beautifully above the green hills, with small villages around it. Take a few photos here before continuing to one of the most famous traditional villages in Flores.
Leave Bajawa early in the morning. The light is softer, Bena is quieter and you still have enough time for the hot spring and the drive to Riung.
Visit Bena Traditional Village near Bajawa
Bena Traditional Village is one of the best-known traditional villages near Bajawa. It belongs to the Ngada people and is still a living village. People live here, work here and welcome travelers at the same time. Walk slowly through the village and take your time to look around. The traditional houses stand around open stone courtyards, with high thatched roofs made from natural materials. In the middle of the village you see stone graves and ancestral symbols, which show how important family and tradition still are here.
The women sitting in front of the houses were weaving colorful textiles. Beautiful ikat cloths were hanging outside, ready to be sold to visitors. They looked strong, elegant and proud. Truly beautiful people. Bena is quite open, so it gets hot quickly. On the ground you see local harvest drying in the sun. I saw what looked like candlenuts, locally called kemiri, spread out to dry. These small daily details make the village feel real and lived-in, not staged for visitors.
Walk all the way to the back of Bena Traditional Village. From there you get a beautiful view over the village with Gunung Inerie in the background.
Because Iwan knew many people here, the visit felt easy and personal. Stop for a small chat, drink some water and do not rush through the village. I also gave some color pencils to a few children, and their happy faces were such a sweet moment. Bena also makes you think. The village is beautiful and the location is stunning, but life is also very basic. It reminds you how rich we are in comfort. And at the same time, what is rich really?
Bring cash if you want to buy a small souvenir. The woven cloths, earrings, belts and bracelets are much nicer to buy here than later in a random shop.
Bamboo forests on the road to Soa
After Bena, continue toward Soa Mengeruda Hot Spring. This part of Flores is beautiful from the car window. You pass green hills, small villages and huge bamboo forests. In Kyoto Japan, people travel to one famous bamboo forest for photos. Here in Flores, you just see bamboo everywhere along the road, sometimes even bigger and wilder. It is one of those small details that makes the drive special.
Soa Mengeruda Hot Spring
The next stop is Soa Mengeruda Hot Spring, one of the best hot springs near Bajawa. To be honest, more heat was not exactly what I was looking for that day. Flores was warm enough already during my September visit, around 28 to 32°C, and cooling down sounded better.
Still, the hot spring was lovely. There are different pools with different temperatures, so choose the one that feels good. Some are hotter, some are easier to stay in for a while. Do not skip the river area. This was my favorite part. The water was cooler there, partly in the shade, and the flow over the rocks felt like a natural massage. Perfect before the longer drive to Riung.
Pack swimwear in a small day bag that stays easy to reach in the car, and bring water shoes. The rocks can be slippery and in some parts the current is stronger than it looks.
Lunch near Bajawa Soa Airport
After the hot spring, continue toward Bajawa Soa Airport for lunch. We stopped at Nusantara Cafe across the road. It is not fancy, but it is a very practical stop on the way to Riung. Order a simple nasi, sit for a while and take a break before the next part of the drive. These easy lunch stops are sometimes exactly what you need on a travel day. Glad my driver knew exactly where to stop at the right moment.
The road from Bajawa to Riung
From the Soa Mengeruda area, it takes about 2 to 2.5 hours to reach Riung. Some parts of the road are challenging, with unpaved stretches, bumps and slow sections. The landscape keeps changing all the time. You pass farms, little villages, jungle, mountains and dry open parts. We even saw a snake crossing the road and a truck losing part of its load. Flores always gives you something to look at.
Take a private driver for this route if you want to travel relaxed. Iwan drove very well, stayed calm and played music in the car. That made it easy to just look outside and enjoy the road. For Flores in general, I would really recommend arranging a driver for your whole trip. Distances are longer than they look, roads can be rough and having a local driver makes everything smoother and more enjoyable.
Contact Iwan as your driver, compare transport options or check 12Go where routes are available. Only use Discover Cars if you feel confident driving on mountain roads and rough local roads.
Arriving in Riung
Around 4:00 PM we arrived in Riung. Just before town, the landscape opened toward the coast and the 17 Islands. After the cooler mountains around Bajawa, this was clearly a different side of Flores.
Riung itself is small and quiet. There are a few small restaurants, a supermarket and some local shops. Do not expect a classic beach town, because the coastline here is mostly mangrove and mud rather than soft white sand. Boats to the islands leave from a long pier just outside town. The real beaches are found on the islands, which is exactly why most travelers come here.
Where to stay in Riung
Stay in Riung if you want to visit the 17 Islands the next day. I booked Nuna Bungalows, a lovely small place run by a Dutch woman and her local husband. They created a relaxed stay with lots of green around it and rice fields nearby.
There are now six bungalows. Mine was comfortable, clean and spacious, with air conditioning, a veranda and a good shower. The price was around 35-40 USD per night, which felt like great value. Breakfast was good too, and yes, I could even order oatmeal. The pancake was also lovely. After a long travel day, small comforts like this feel extra nice.
Book your Riung accommodation ahead if you want comfort. There are not endless options here, and after a long travel day it is nice to arrive somewhere easy. Check Booking or Expedia before you go, especially in the busier months.
Dinner in Riung
In the evening, go to Cafe de Mar for a simple dinner. I went there with some other travelers, and the guides were sitting there too. In small places like Riung, everyone slowly ends up in the same spots. Keep the evening easy and go to bed on time. The next day is probably the reason you came to Riung. Most travelers visit the 17 Islands as a day trip, but this Mirja Mermaid and beach girl wanted more. An overnight stay on an uninhabited island was waiting.
FAQ about Bajawa Flores
Is Bajawa Flores worth visiting?
Yes, Bajawa Flores is worth visiting if you like culture, mountain views and traditional villages. It is not a beach destination, but it shows a completely different side of Flores than Labuan Bajo or Riung.
Can you visit Bena Traditional Village on the way from Bajawa to Riung?
Yes, Bena Traditional Village is an easy and worthwhile stop between Bajawa and Riung. Start early from Bajawa, so you have enough time for the village, Soa Mengeruda Hot Spring and the drive north to Riung. Another option is to visit at the end of the day when coming from Ruteng.
Let Me Inspire You Takeaways
The route from Bajawa Flores to Riung is more than just getting from A to B. With a relaxed start, a visit to Bena Traditional Village and a stop at Soa Mengeruda Hot Spring, the journey itself becomes one of the highlights of your trip. The women weaving in Bena, the candlenuts drying in the sun, the bamboo forests, the bumpy road, the music in the car and the first view of the 17 Islands all make this route special.
Next stop: the 17 Islands of Riung. And yes, I stayed overnight on an uninhabited island. That adventure deserves its own blog.
