The Riung 17 Islands overnight tour is worth it if you want one of the quietest island experiences on Flores. Instead of only making a day trip through the 17 Islands Marine Park, I slept in a tent on an uninhabited island, snorkeled without other tourists around me, ate fresh fish from the fire and woke up with the sea as my morning shower. Riung asks for a small detour to the north coast of Flores. Many travelers continue from Bajawa straight to Moni and Kelimutu, but I was happy I made time for this stop. It was simple, local and a little adventurous, but still comfortable enough to really enjoy it.
Where is Riung and why visit the 17 Islands Marine Park?
Riung is a small coastal town in northern Flores. The main reason to come here is the 17 Islands Marine Park, known locally as Taman Laut 17 Pulau Riung. The name sounds like there are exactly 17 islands, but in reality there are more small islands in this protected area. What I loved most was the quietness. This was not Bali, where several boats arrive at the same snorkeling spot. Here I was floating above coral with no one else around me, with dry hills, turquoise water and small white beaches in the distance.
Staying at Nuna Bungalows before the tour
I slept at Nuna Bungalows before the trip, and that was a good choice for Riung. I slept well and had a filling breakfast with oatmeal and fruit in the garden. In the morning I also talked with a Dutch woman staying there. We spoke about travel and how big a step it sometimes is to go far away, even when you love it.
In Riung, you will hear the mosque early in the morning. The sound was quite loud at sunrise, and I needed a moment to get used to it. At the same time, the singing was beautiful in its own way. I just turned around and went back to sleep.
Stay in Riung the night before your 17 Islands tour. The boat trip starts in the morning and it is much nicer to leave relaxed. Or you can book an afternoon snorkel trip if that suits you better!
How I booked the Riung 17 Islands overnight tour
The owner of Nuna Bungalows arranged the overnight tour for me. That made everything easy, because this is not a standard boat trip that leaves every day. My guide came with me, of course. He did not want to miss this chance either. Besides him, there was a captain and a helper on the boat. I was the only tourist. They had tried to find someone else to join, but no one had time. So there I was, Mirja with four men on the boat. It sounds funny now, and it was also funny then.
The boat was full of food, sleeping gear, fishing gear, snorkeling gear, cooking equipment, water and drinks. I paid around EUR 238 in total for two nights at Nuna Bungalows, including breakfast and the private overnight tour. I believe the bungalow was about EUR 50 per night at the time, so the tour itself was roughly EUR 140. Because I traveled alone, I had to pay for the full boat, crew, food, camping gear and permit myself. With two or more people, the price per person will probably be lower.
An overnight stay in the Riung 17 Islands Marine Park is not always possible. A special permit may be needed, so ask your accommodation to arrange this before you go.
What to pack for one night on an uninhabited island
I packed one small daypack with my bikini, something to sleep in, sunscreen, toilet items and light clothes for the evening. I also brought my power bank, fully charged camera, phone and GoPro. You will not find shops, showers or charging points on the island, so keep it simple but bring full batteries.
Bring an underwater camera or GoPro. The coral, clownfish and clear water are too good to only keep in your memory.
The boat trip started with a white manta ray
We were not even ten minutes away from Riung when the men spotted a white manta ray. I had seen a black manta before, but never a white one. I heard them call, saw a shape in the water and jumped straight from the boat. The men laughed because they loved my enthusiasm. Sadly, I only saw the manta from above and did not get it on camera. That is travel too. Sometimes the best moments happen too quickly.
Snorkeling without crowds in Riung 17 Islands
Our first real snorkeling stop was so peaceful. I was the only person in the water. The coral looked beautiful, the weather was good and small colorful fish were swimming around me. This is exactly why you should visit Riung. It felt so different from the busy island trips in more famous parts of Indonesia. After that we continued through the islands, with the mountains of Flores in the background and water changing from deep blue to bright turquoise. White beaches, stunning shells and no other tourists around me. This is my habitat. Give me a boat, a snorkel and a quiet island, and I am happy.
Lunch on Nusa Tiga with fresh fish and hammocks
At Nusa Tiga, the men went ashore and started preparing lunch. I went back into the water for more snorkeling, although it was very shallow in some parts. A dark cloud was hanging above the mountains on the mainland, but around us it stayed bright and calm. The fire was made on the beach, hammocks were hung between the trees, a small music speaker came out and the captain started preparing fresh fish. While lunch was being prepared, I walked along the beach, searched for shells, took some photos and collected plastic from the sand.
Keep the beach clean. It is such a simple thing, but it matters so much in places like this.
The lunch was really good too. Fresh fish, vegetables and proper Indonesian flavors taste even better when you eat barefoot on an empty beach.
After lunch, we all rested on the beach for a while. Around three o’clock it was time for the next snorkeling session near Nusa Rutong. This reef was beautiful, with clownfish everywhere. The men also caught a fish along the way, so that one was for dinner next to the almost escaped chicken on board.
Setting up camp on Nusa Bamba
After lunch we had already dropped off some of the men and supplies at Nusa Bamba, where we would sleep. When we arrived after snorkeling, the tent was already up in the middle of the beach. The campfire was ready and the captain had changed into chef mode again. I did not have to help, but I wanted to do something back for everything they were doing for me. So I started cleaning the beach again.
There was quite a lot of plastic, probably brought in by the current. Sadly, it was later burned at the camp. That was not perfect, but travel is not always perfect. And yes, when you sleep on a remote island, there is no toilet. I walked a bit farther along the coast and into the bushes. Number two also has to happen. It is not glamorous, but honestly, it is part of the adventure.
Dinner, arak and sleeping on the beach
When the sun went down, the atmosphere became even more special. We sat on the beach, the local arak was poured and dinner was prepared over the fire. The food was again amazing and surprisingly healthy. Fish, chicken, vegetables and rice; super fresh and made with care.
The arak was mixed with something, and I have to admit it tasted really good. The fire was burning, the men were laughing and at some point we were all dancing around the campfire. I remember thinking, take me back already, even while I was still there. The tent was more comfortable than I expected. There was a real mattress, clean sheets and my own lamp. The water was moving gently against the shore, and that sound was wonderful.
Bring earplugs if you sleep lightly. A remote island sounds peaceful, but you still hear animals, wind and small beach sounds during the night.
Waking up on an uninhabited island
The next morning I woke up early. A fresh dip in the sea was the only shower I needed. The sunrise was beautiful, and for a moment I really did not want to leave. If you have the time, I recommend doing the overnight tour instead of only a day trip. In the early morning we left for Bat Point at Pulau Ontoloe. Hundreds of bats were hanging in the trees. They were so big that they looked more like large birds than bats.
Back to Riung and continuing to Moni
We returned to the harbor in Riung and walked back to Nuna Bungalows. Around nine or half past nine, we got back in the car and continued the route to Moni and Kelimutu.
Book your room for an extra day so you can enjoy a proper shower, unpack your bag and have a relaxed breakfast before continuing your journey.
Practical tips for the Riung 17 Islands overnight tour
Book the overnight tour through your accommodation in Riung or ask your driver, and ask clearly if the permit and park fee are included. Prices can change depending on the group size, so do not take my price as a fixed amount.
Respect the islands. Do not leave plastic behind, do not touch the coral and be careful where you step when the water is shallow.
Pack light, but bring sunscreen, a hat, dry clothes, toilet items, a power bank, a charged camera and an underwater camera. Take enough cash to Riung, because small towns in Flores are not places where you want to depend too much on cards or last-minute ATM searches.
Download the Wise app for digital money transfers in Indonesia.
FAQ about Riung 17 Islands
Is Riung 17 Islands worth visiting?
Yes, Riung 17 Islands is worth visiting if you like quiet beaches, snorkeling and local boat trips without big crowds. You need a little more time to get there, but the reward is a peaceful island experience.
Can you sleep on an island in Riung 17 Islands?
Yes, it is possible to sleep on an island in Riung 17 Islands, but it is not a standard tour. You need to arrange it locally, and a permit may be required.
Is the Riung 17 Islands overnight tour safe as a solo female traveler?
Yes, I felt safe during my overnight tour. I was the only tourist on the boat with four local men, and everything was well arranged through my driver and accommodation.
Let Me Inspire You Takeaways
The Riung 17 Islands overnight tour was one of my most special experiences on Flores. The nature was stunning, I was the only tourist, the guides and crew were the best and the food was amazing. Go to Riung if you have enough time in your Flores itinerary and want something quieter than the standard route. Book Nuna Bungalows as accommodation, book the 17 Islands tour there and definitely bring your underwater camera.
After Riung, my route continued inland to Moni and Kelimutu. From sleeping on an empty beach to watching the famous colored crater lakes, Flores changed completely within one travel day. That is what makes this island so interesting to travel through.
