The drive from Labuan Bajo to Bajawa is long, but it is a beautiful part of a Flores island trip. With stops at Cunca Plias Waterfalls, the Cancar spider web rice fields and Ruteng, the journey took us around ten hours. One moment you are still in Labuan Bajo with a cappuccino, and a few hours later you are sweating in the jungle with a walking stick in your hand. This was day three of my Flores overland trip. With only seven nights on this Indonesian island, there was no time to stay anywhere too long. So I booked a private driver to take me from Labuan Bajo to Ende in five days. It was a comfortable and efficient way to see the main highlights of Flores.
Leaving Labuan Bajo after breakfast
After breakfast at Green Hill Boutique Hotel, it was time to get on the road. Funny enough, I had booked for one person but received two breakfasts. A solid start to the day. Before leaving Labuan Bajo, there was just enough time for a good cappuccino across the street at Mimamori Bajo. Iwan, my driver, was ready at 8:30 AM to load my suitcase into the car. The plan was simple: drive from Labuan Bajo to Bajawa and arrive around 6:30 PM. Simple on paper. In reality, less than one hour later, my white shorts and I were already heading into the mud.
Fruit stop in the Flores hills
Not far outside Labuan Bajo, the road started to climb into the hills. We stopped to buy fruit for the journey. A few minutes out of the car, some local fruit in your hand, and then back on the road again. Small houses, green hills and scooters carrying far too many people passed by my car window. Then another view appeared that made me grab my camera again.
If you visit a village or meet a family along the way, small practical gifts such as pencils or notebooks can be appreciated. Give them through an adult, guide or teacher rather than handing things out randomly from the car.
Hiking to Cunca Plias Waterfalls
After about one hour, we stopped at Cunca Plias Waterfalls. You pay a small fee for a local guide. In my case, it was 70,000 IDR in total. Iwan stayed near the car while my local guide handed me a walking stick and led the way. I was wearing white shorts, which was not my smartest travel decision. What looked like a small walk turned out to be around 2 km each way. Not flat, of course. There were muddy paths, climbs and enough heat to make the sweat drip from my face. The walk itself was beautiful. First, we passed farmland and pineapple plantations. Then the path continued into the jungle.
Bring water for the walk to Cunca Plias Waterfalls. The path is more intense than it looks, especially in the heat.
The first waterfall was lovely. Local boys were jumping into the water and cooling off like it was the most normal afternoon activity. There was not enough time for a proper swim, unfortunately, because we still had a long drive ahead.
At the second waterfall, you stand above the drop with a beautiful view over the valley. There are wooden platforms where you can look down and take photos. By then, the climb back was already on my mind, but the view was worth the effort.
The climb back and my new nickname
The way back up was a workout. My watch went slightly crazy, so this was not the moment to rush. The heat and jet lag were not helping, and the day before I had already climbed Padar Island. Vacation, right? When I returned to the car, Iwan had to laugh. I earned my new nickname: Oma. I had to laugh too. Oma means grandma in Dutch, so at least I understood exactly what he was calling me. That joke stayed with us for the rest of the day. Every new climb? There was Oma again.
Cara spider web rice fields near Cancar
Our next stop was the Cara spider web rice field, also known as Lingko Cara, near Cancar and around 20 kilometres west of Ruteng. Again, there was a climb involved, which had become a running joke between Iwan and me by then. Luckily, this path was much easier than the waterfall hike. From the viewpoint, you look down over the round rice fields that make this part of Flores so famous. There are several lingko fields in the Manggarai area, but Cara near Cancar is the best-known viewpoint.
The unusual shape comes from the traditional Manggarai lodok system, with the land divided from one central point into sections for different families. It was interesting to see that the spider web pattern is not only beautiful from above, but also part of the local farming tradition. Oma approved this stop.
Lunch in Ruteng
By then, it was definitely time for lunch. This is where traveling with a local driver becomes very useful. He knew where to stop, and we had lunch at Parikoro Restoran in Ruteng. We shared several dishes, which is much nicer than sitting there with one lonely plate by yourself. A fresh coconut came at exactly the right moment after the waterfall hike.
If you have more time for your Flores island itinerary, Ruteng is a logical first overnight stop. Then you can also visit an old traditional village, other waterfalls and hot springs. With only seven nights for the complete Flores route, continuing to Bajawa made more sense for this trip.
Driving from Ruteng to Bajawa
Skipping an overnight stay in Ruteng meant there was still a long drive ahead. On the map, it does not look too dramatic, but on Flores the roads take time. Iwan drove easily through the mountains. The road kept turning, and every corner showed something new. Green valleys, small villages, high hills and views towards volcanoes passed by the window. I was very happy that I was not the one driving.
Indonesia drives on the left, which is useful to remember if you are considering renting a scooter or car. I knew this, but it still takes me a moment to adjust when I first sit in the car. It became dark while we were still driving through the mountains. I had real respect for Iwan, who stayed calm and focused until Bajawa.
For the route from Labuan Bajo to Bajawa, I recommend traveling with a local driver. The roads are beautiful, but also winding and tiring after a full day of stops.
Where to stay in Bajawa
We arrived in Bajawa around 6:30 PM. I did not see many inviting restaurants open, but lunch was still doing its job. A drink and a very good shower at Madja Edelweis Homestay were enough. My driver had arranged the room, which was very convenient after such a long day. It was a simple homestay with a spacious room and breakfast included. I paid around 300,000 IDR for one night.
The next morning, breakfast was a very good pancake with tea and fresh juice. You can compare hotels and homestays in Bajawa on Booking.com or Expedia, especially if you prefer to arrange something with a little more comfort in advance.
How to travel from Labuan Bajo to Bajawa
For this route, traveling with a private driver was the right choice. If you have more time and are traveling on a budget, you can check bus and shared transport options on 12Go, although departures and availability on Flores can be limited. You will also have less freedom to stop along the way. Quite a few travelers explore parts of Flores by scooter, and the feeling of freedom is easy to understand. Still, I would not choose this full route as a first self-drive experience. The mountain roads, local traffic and long driving hours can be tiring.
I booked Iwan as my private driver for my complete five-day Flores route and paid 1.2 million IDR per day. This included the car, fuel and his accommodation along the way. I paid for my own hotels, and when we stopped for lunch, Iwan simply joined me and we shared the dishes we ordered. It was not a cheap way to travel around Flores, but for me it was worth every rupiah. I did not have to worry about the mountain roads, luggage or finding transport between stops. I could adjust the route along the way, and I also had good company during the long driving days. At the end of the trip, I gave Iwan a good tip because he had made the whole journey so much easier and more enjoyable. Contact Iwan directly to book him for a great adventure across Flores. This is not sponsored; I was simply very happy with this experience.
FAQ about traveling from Labuan Bajo to Bajawa
Is the drive from Labuan Bajo to Bajawa worth it?
Yes. I would do this drive again, but only with an early start and no big plans after arrival. You spend a lot of time in the car, walk more than expected and arrive tired, but the stops along the way make the long journey worth it.
How long does it take to drive from Labuan Bajo to Bajawa?
Without long stops, allow at least eight hours. My journey took around ten hours because we visited Cunca Plias Waterfalls, the Cancar spider web rice fields and Ruteng along the way.
Can you travel from Labuan Bajo to Bajawa in one day?
Yes, but start early. It is a long and winding drive, so keep your stops realistic and do not plan much after arriving in Bajawa.
Is it better to stop overnight in Ruteng?
Ruteng is a logical overnight stop if you have more time. With only seven nights for my Flores itinerary, I continued to Bajawa and used Ruteng mainly as a lunch stop.
Let Me Inspire You Takeaways
By the time we reached Bajawa, I was tired but very happy that we had not driven straight through. Cunca Plias and the spider web rice fields turned a long transfer into one of the most memorable days of my Flores route. Start early, bring enough water and do not plan an ambitious evening after arrival. For this distance, traveling with a local driver made the day much easier.
My Flores route continued from Bajawa to Riung, with stops at Bena Traditional Village and Mangeruda Hot Springs near Soa and slept on a remote island!! You can read the next part of the journey here. Or are you going back to Labuan Bajo for the Komodo Tour?
