My next stop on my 3,5 weeks travel through Vietnam is Tam Coc, a breathtaking gem near Ninh Binh; known as the ‘Halong Bay on land’! I was curious to see if that was true! Tam Coc offers a blend of stunning landscapes, rich history with beautiful pagodas and original activities. I am thrilled to share my adventures in Tam Coc in this blog about what you can do in Tam Coc, where to stay and where to eat and how to get here.

How to Travel to Tam Coc?

My journey started in Hanoi, then I traveled to Cat Ba and now Tam Coc near Ninh Binh. Everybody is saying Ninh Binh, but I recommend you to stay and book transport directly to Tam Coc. This town is smaller, more backpacker and traveler orientated.

Book accommodation in Tam Coc and not in Ninh Binh!

I booked my bus from Cat Ba to Tam Coc via 12GoAsia months in advance. After my pickup at my hotel in Cat Ba the boat went on the ferry to the mainland of Vietnam. Normally the bus ride will take about 5 hours, but mine took 6,5 hours after a broken brake of the bus. Luckily, they prepared it and we got some snacks and drinks and we could continue our journey. From the drop off in Tam Coc I walked to my hotel.

If you come from the South of Vietnam you can probably arrive by night bus or night train from Hue or Hoi An. I booked a night train via 12GoAsia with Laman Express for ~65 USD from Ninh Binh to Dong Hoi, to my next destination Phong Nha. Via the Grab App I booked a taxi that bought me for 127k VND / 5$ to the train station from my hotel in Tam Coc.

By booking a night train you save time and save an accommodation

Warning: Most buses will stop in the bigger city Ninh Binh where you have to transfer to Tam Coc 

Where to Stay in Tam Coc?

I booked the hotel Tam Coc Holiday Hotel & Villa via Booking in advance for 2 nights and 3 days. As my night train left at ~22:00 PM, I had a full day ahead to spent the day in Tam Coc area. The Tam Coc Holiday Hotel & Villa Hotel has a perfect location, just outside the city center close to the river. You can walk to all the restaurants. I loved the styling of the hotel rooms, which are very comfortable with a huge room and stunning shower. They offer also villas near the pool as well. I didn’t use the pool but I used the shower before my departure in the evening after a full day of exploring Tam Coc by scooter.

Seven Must Do’s in Tam Coc, Ninh Binh!

On the first afternoon I walked through the city center all the way to the sunset. By coincidence I arrived at the stunning spot, check here for location. Made some great pictures! Looking forward to exploring my two days in Tam Coc.

1. Rent a Scooter!

I rented a scooter for two days at Lys Travel Agency next to my hotel for 100k VND / 4$ per day. Showing my driving license, filling in some paperwork and I got a small scooter with a helmet within 5 minutes!

Before setting off, make sure to check your bike for any issues, wear a helmet, and  use Google to navigate the scenic routes

Warning: Please check your insurance, if you are covered by driving a scooter in a foreign country

I think renting a scooter is one of the best ways to explore Tam Coc and its surroundings. It provides the ultimate freedom to discover the region at your own pace and your own preferences. You ride through picturesque rice paddies, limestone karst and charming villages. And you will have the chance to stop and take photos at any time you want! Explore the hidden spots that are often missed by the group tours. Love it!!!

Waring: The roads are generally well-maintained but be cautious of occasional bumps and narrow passages

2. Visit the Forbidden City

On my first day in Tam Coc I drove with my scooter for about 10 km to the Forbidden City, also known as the Hoa Lu Ancient Capital. Don’t mistake this Forbidden City with the one in Beijing! This historical site dates back to the 10th and 11th centuries when it was the  capital of Vietnam under the Dinh and Le Dynasties. The former citadel has a rich history, which attracts a lot of visitors.

You can take the scooter over the bridge underneath the Hua Lu- Port and ride a circle around the former city. I started to walk but that is definitely too long, 10km. So take a bike or scooter to ride through the stunning area

The Forbidden City is divided into two main buildings; the temple of Dinh Tien Hoang and the temple of Lê Dai Hanh. Both buildings are located in a walled area, with beautiful colorful gardens and several water features including Koi Carpers. The temples are beautiful and are in excellent condition. The interior of the temple is beautiful and can be seen in almost completely original condition. The two temple complexes including a museum are located at a large square, with a small pagoda in the middle. From the plaza you have a great view of the picturesque old gates, set against the backdrop of the breathtaking karst mountains for which this region is so famous.

Did you know: Hoa Lu was strategically chosen as the capital due to its natural defenses provided by the surrounding limestone mountains, which made it difficult for invaders to penetrate

Don’t forget to wear long sleeves and shorts and trousers over the knees

To visit the Forbidden City you have to buy a ticket at the front of the gate, 20k VND / 1$ and the site is open from 7:00AM till 16:00 PM. It’s a great ride on the scooter and a great place to visit, with a lot of history. On to the next spot with the bike!

3. Lake of the Buddhas: Am Tiem Cave

Not far from the Forbidden City, I saw a sign for the Am Tiem Cave. That was also on the map which I got from my hotel as a must see, so I drove up there. I paid the entrance fee of 50k VND / 2$ and walked into a large cave with stunning wall paintings. At the end of the tunnel you will find a serene lake with some temples with a lot of Buddha statues. This tranquil spot is perfect for a moment of reflection and peace; perfect to meditate by the water’s edge and soak in the spiritual ambiance. You will see a lot of young couples coming here.

I walked the path around the whole lake. The green and flowers are well maintained and the water was so still that it mirrored the mountains around it. You have two entrances I noticed, I recommend you to visit the temple more in the mountains. There you will found a temple with the many buddhas, even far in the rocks. You must climb a lot of stairs but the view is amazing and the buddhas are worth the climb. Back on my scooter and heading back to Tam Coc, but not before watching a stunning sunset.

4. Hike the 500 Steps at Mua Cave

My last activity of the day was hike up to the Mua Cave. This Mua Cave is located 5 km from Tam Coc center, so easy to rent a bicycle or a scooter to get there. When you arrive at Hang Mua, there is a ticket office next to the parking lot and where you have to pay 100K VND ($4) entrance fee.

Follow the path with restaurants, some accommodation all the way to the end and you will reach the base of the Mua Cave mountain. The hike up is a challenging 500 steps on the ridge of a mountain to the top of Mua Cave. But the adventure, mental and physical health and ignoring my afraid of heights is rewarded with the amazing panoramic view!

Take a break to catch some breath and look around to admire the breathtaking scenery of the Tam Coc valley below

The stairs to Mua Cave are steep and winding, but they are well-maintained and provide many opportunities for rest along the way. When I reached the summit, you will be greeted by a stunning view of the river winding through the karst mountains. I was lucky to go during the sunset and a clear sky, so the view was literally breathtaking!

At the top, you’ll find a small pagoda and a Dragon Statue. You could get on the dragon statue but during my visit it was so busy that it was almost dangerous to get through the cave to the top. I tried and did it, but with hindsight I would have skipped the last part.

If you have a drone, use it!! This must give amazing pictures to shoot here!!

The panoramic view allows you to see the entire Tam Coc area, including the rice fields and limestone formations. You can even see the Ngo Dong river where the boats go for the boat trip, see below.

Don’t forget to snap some photos to capture this unforgettable moment or your next sweaty profile picture!

Waking down is sometimes even harder but keep focusing and be careful! When I arrived on the save ground again, I walked to the Mua Cave itself. I thought this was a whole attraction but the hike is a must, you can skip the cave to be honest.

Tired of the busy and inspired day on the scooter exploring the area. Time for a refreshing shower and food! See in chapter below my suggestions.

5. Bich Dong Pagoda: Instagram Hot Spot

My second full day in Tam Coc, ready for another day of adventure on my scooter. I loved it yesterday, so hired the same scooter again. First stop of the day: Bich Dong Pagoda.

The Bich Dong pagoda in Tam Coc, Ninh Binh is just a small temple against a mountain but became very popular because of photos on Instagram showing the bridge at the entrance. Although it became famous, it is still a relatively quiet place to visit. You can find the Bich Dong pagoda in the mountains of Truong Yen, 3 km from Tam Coc. I parked my bike and had to pay 50k VND /2$. There is no entrance fee for the pagoda itself.

Again, bring your own long-sleeved clothing or take the scarfs at the entrance of the pagoda, just to respect the culture

The Dich Dong Pagoda was built about 600 years ago, under the reign of Le Thai To. The site consists of a gate with a bridge and three small pagodas. The three pagodas are located on three different levels and for that reason have the matching names Low Pagoda (Ha Pagoda), Middle Pagoda (Trung Pagoda) and Top Pagoda (Thuong Pagoda). The location is stunning, stuck between the karst mountains at a small lake. The old look of the beautiful gate gave it a mysterious vibe.

From the first Low pagoda, you have to climb 120 stone steps to reach the Middle pagoda. This pagoda is built in a dark cave. I loved this one, it smelled very good with all the incense. You can walk through the cave and continue up the path to the Top Pagoda, on top of the mountain. There are two shrines on either side of the pagoda with a stunning view through the mountains. Bich Dong means Green Pearl Cave Pagoda, named after the breathtaking panoramic view of nature, there. Back on the scooter and up to my next destination the Bird Park.

6. Visit Bird Park

I drove a lovely route with my scooter through the stunning mountains of Tam Coc to the Thung Nham Bird Valley. This was about 4,5km from the Bich Dong Pagoda and about 7 km from Tam Coc center. After paying 10k VND / 0.4$ for parking my scooter and 150k VND /6$ entrance fee, I walked in the park, it was huge.

Rent a bicycle to get through the park, this will save you time. My mistake was that I did everything on foot.

You would expect a lot of birds in this park, but to be honest I haven’t seen any!!

I understood that the best time to visit is in the late afternoon when the birds return to their nests

The area is home to over 40 bird species, including storks, herons, and kingfishers. But I found it more like a theme park than a bird park in full nature. All was well maintained in several districts: with gardens, a windmill, orchid garden, bridges and rivers with boats. You can visit two caves within the park. I almost ran through the park looking for birds but saw more flowers.

There are a couple of restaurants in the park and also a hotel with a huge natural pool. I expected something different but it was fun anyway. Drove the 7km back to Tam Coc to do the main event in the area, saving the best for last they say!!

7. Tam Coc Boat Tour

No trip to Tam Coc, Ninh Binh is complete without a boat tour through its iconic waterways. There are two main spots you can explore: Tam Coc and Trang An. I past the Trang An river on my first day to the Forbidden City, but I wanted to do it today and I chose the one in Tam Coc.

In the port of Van Lam in the center of Tam Coc you have to buy a ticket at the entrance. I paid 250k VND /10$ for the boat and one person tour. The boat ride will take you about 1,5 to 2 hours. You add a ride in a yellow electric car attached to the boat tour, which will bring you to several temples in the area. I already seen so many temples that I skipped that part of the tour.

I loved the peaceful rowboat ride on the river through the limestone mountains, green rice fields and underneath the caves in the huge mountains. The boats are rowed by mainly women and a couple of men who often use their legs and feet to row. They taught themselves this technique because they spend long days rowing and that way their arms can rest. It was great to see but feel almost guilty to sit and let her do all the work.

The boat ride takes you past rice paddies, beautiful water lilies on the side of the river and between huge limestone mountains with three small caves Hang Ca, Hang Hai and Hang Ba. Each cave has its own unique formations, with stalactites and stalagmites.

I liked it to see the area from below, I even could see the Dragon Statue on Mua Cave, which I walked up yesterday! Time to pack fresh up, have dinner and pack my suitcase for my night train. Everything I do here is and adventure and highlight! I’m in love with Vietnam already!

Where to Eat in Tam Coc, Ninh Binh?

From my fellow travelers on the Halong Bay boat cruise I was told to go to the Brick Café. This café is on the main road to Tam Coc, a bit outside the city center, but it was worth the walk.The coconut coffee (70k VND / 2,5$) was a real treat, including some fresh roasted coconut flakes accompanied by the drink. The next to I went back on my scooter on my way to the Forbidden City for my daily shot of caffeine in a delicious cappuccino (60k VND / 2,5$). This place is popular among the digital nomads I noticed.

My hotel recommended to go to Chef Hien Restaurant in the main street of Tam Coc. This family restaurant is popular for BBQ Duck. You see the ducks roasting in front of the restaurant on the BBQ. Not my thing to be honest, I went for fried and vegetable noodles!

I was a big fan of the NGON vegan Restaurant. I’m not a vegan but I love the vibe and the food here. Great crowd and the falafel bowl was out of this league! Very satisfying and reason to come back the next morning for a smooth bowl! What a treat this restaurant! So check it out!

The view at the Coffee Cat Pet Café is great and of course the young cats running around which you can cuddle and stroke. Great concept if you love animals. This café is located around the corner of my hotel, just outside the city center.

Final Thoughts on Tam Coc, Ninh Binh

Tam Coc is a destination that truly has it all, from historical pagodas and spiritual sites to adventures and natural beauty. As you explore this beautiful region by scooter you will find freedom and embrace the charm and serenity. Rent a bicycle, take a boat tour, hike the mountains or simply soaking in the tranquility, Tam Coc promises a lovely experience. So don’t skip Tam Coc in your itinerary and enjoy the beauty of the Tam Coc area. Happy travels!

Are you joining me on my next adventure in Phong Nha or are you going to Hanoi of Halong Bay, Cat Ba?