The Kelimutu lakes in Indonesia were one of the places I was most curious about on Flores. After spending the night in Moni, it was finally time to see the three crater lakes for myself. This was also our last full travel day on Flores. We started at Kelimutu, stopped at a coffee plantation and ended in Ende, where it was time to say goodbye to my driver Iwan after five days on the road together.
Visiting Kelimutu Lakes Indonesia from Moni
Around 7:30 AM we drove from Moni up to Kelimutu National Park. The sky was clear with a few clouds, and according to Iwan the weather looked good enough to see the lakes properly. You do need a bit of luck here. Clouds and mist can move in quickly, so staying overnight in Moni gives you more flexibility.
Stay in Moni the night before visiting Kelimutu. You can then choose an early morning visit or adjust your timing depending on the weather.
Many people visit the Kelimutu lakes for sunrise. I didn’t. Getting up extremely early is not really my thing, and I later heard that sunrise does not automatically mean clear blue skies either. For foreign visitors, entrance to Kelimutu National Park is IDR 150,000. You can drive up to the parking area and continue on foot from there. The walk to the main viewpoint takes around 20 to 30 minutes. It is a proper climb with steps, but nothing difficult. Once the first crater lake comes into view, you quickly forget about the stairs.
Bring an extra layer for the morning. It can be much cooler up at Kelimutu than down in Moni, especially if you arrive early.
Why do the Kelimutu lakes have different colors?
Mount Kelimutu has three crater lakes, and all three can have a different color at the same time. The lakes are called Tiwu Ata Bupu, Tiwu Nuwamuri Ko’ofai and Tiwu Ata Polo. They are not just different in color. Each lake also has its own meaning in local Ende-Lio beliefs, connected to the souls of older people, young people and those who did wrong during their lives.
During my visit, the two lakes beside each other were different shades of turquoise, while the third lake on the other side of the trail was much darker. The colors are not fixed either. They have changed between turquoise, green, brown, red and almost black over the years. This happens because each lake has its own chemical composition. Volcanic gases and hydrothermal activity interact with minerals in the water. Changes in acidity and oxidation can then change the color of the lakes.
So what you see depends partly on when you visit. At the highest viewpoint you can look across all three crater lakes. There is a small monument at the top and local sellers walk up with coffee and drinks. It was not completely clear when we reached the top, but there was no heavy mist and the colors were easy to see. Even better, it was quiet. I managed to take a panorama with all three lakes in one photo. That one definitely stayed in the camera roll. On the way back down, stop at the lower viewpoint as well. You get much closer views of the two lakes beside each other, and for me this was just as impressive as the view from the top. Kelimutu was another real highlight of Flores!
Back to Moni for breakfast
After Kelimutu we drove back to Santiago Bed & Breakfast in Moni. Breakfast was waiting, including a very good pancake. After the climb and fresh mountain air, that went down very well. Then it was time to leave Moni and start driving toward Ende.
Wolopaku Coffee Tour and Tasting
Our next stop was Wolopaku Coffee, around 40 minutes from Moni. Flores is known for its coffee, so stopping at a plantation somewhere along the route made sense. At Wolopaku I walked through the plantation and learned more about how the coffee goes from the plant to the cup. Once again, I was the only tourist there. The guide explained the different beans, how the coffee is processed and how roasting changes the taste.
Then came the tasting, where I could compare several coffees. Normally I am definitely a cappuccino person. Give me milk and a decent layer of foam and I am happy. But drinking the coffee here without all that was actually very good. It was interesting to taste the difference between the beans and roasting methods instead of simply ordering another coffee.
If you like coffee, this is a nice extra stop between Moni and Ende. Check the available tours before you go, especially outside coffee harvesting season.
Back through the landslide
From Wolopaku we continued toward Ende. That also meant passing the landslide area again. We had already crossed it the previous day on our way to Moni, and traffic was still only allowed through at set times. Luckily, Iwan knew exactly when the road would open. We joined the queue without having to sit there for hours. If you travel overland through Flores, having a local driver who knows things like this really helps. A distance on Google Maps does not tell you much when road conditions change.
Arriving in Ende Flores
Around 1 PM we arrived in Ende and checked into LCR Hotel. I paid about EUR 34 for the night. The room was huge and the location was perfect in Ende. After a homestay, B&B, tent and bungalow during the previous days, having a large hotel room for the last night was a nice change. This was also where it was time to say goodbye to Iwan and settle the payment for our five-day drive across Flores. I had really lucked out with him. He knew the island, knew when roads were open and was simply a fun person to travel with.
If you are planning a similar Flores overland route, I would definitely recommend arranging a good local driver. The rest of the afternoon in Ende was very chill on purpose. I walked around for a while, found a proper cappuccino place NIU cafe, had something to eat and called home. Went for my last dinner to Rejo Sari, just around the corner of my hotel, a lovely toko with delicious food! Then it was back to the hotel to sort through all the photos from the previous week and post some new stories on Instagram.
Flying from Ende to Bali
The next morning I flew from Ende back to Bali with Wings Air. My flight left Ende at 9:20 AM for Labuan Bajo. From there I continued to Denpasar at 11:35 AM and arrived in Bali around 12:50 PM. Flight schedules change, so check the current connections before booking. You can also compare transport and flight options through 12Go. The flight gave me one last look at Flores. From the window I could see the mountains and volcanoes we had spent the previous days driving across. After seven nights on Flores, it was time to fly back to Bali; it had been such a great trip!
Frequently asked questions about Kelimutu lakes
Are the Kelimutu lakes worth visiting?
Yes. Kelimutu was one of the highlights of my Flores trip. The three crater lakes are unusual, the colors really are different and the views from the viewpoints are worth the drive and walk up.
Do you need to visit Kelimutu for sunrise?
No. Sunrise is popular, but you can also visit later in the morning. We arrived after sunrise and could still see all three lakes very well. Weather is more important than being there at one exact time.
How difficult is the walk to the Kelimutu lakes?
The walk from the parking area to the main viewpoint takes roughly 20 to 30 minutes. The path is paved with stairs and some uphill sections, but you do not need to be an experienced hiker.
Let Me Inspire You Takeaways
Stay overnight in Moni before visiting the Kelimutu lakes. It gives you more flexibility with the weather and saves a long drive first thing in the morning. Do not feel that you absolutely have to visit for sunrise either. We started later and still had good views, hardly any crowds and enough time to stop at the different viewpoints. Wolopaku Coffee makes an easy extra stop between Moni and Ende.
Even if you normally drink your coffee with plenty of milk like me, it is fun to taste how different beans and roasting methods change the flavor. Ende worked perfectly as the final stop of my Flores overland trip. After a week of homestays, B&Bs, tents and bungalows, a big hotel room, a proper cappuccino and a quiet afternoon were a very nice way to finish.
Continue your Flores road trip
Starting in Ende and traveling west across Flores? Stop at Blue Stone Beach before continuing toward Riung. Read my previous blog about Blue Stone Beach Flores and the drive between Riung and Moni for the route, road conditions and what to expect along the way.
