In this Sicilian travel blog, I will give you tips, information and inspirations on the Southern part of Sicily. In this part of Sicily, you can find historical Greek culture at the UNESCO-listed sites Valley of the Temples and Selinunte. The coast on this Mediterranean Sea is breath-taking, that is what you will see in this blog too; Spiaggia di Piana Grande and the rock formations of Scala dei Turchi near Realmonte. Furthermore, the town of Mazara del Vallo, where you can see the North African influences. See below my route and tips and information on my accommodations, restaurants and places to visit in stunning South Sicily!
Spotting Temples in the Valley of the Temples
One thing is for sure you can’t visit and see all the places in Sicily in one holiday. You must make concessions and choices. Valley of the Temples was one of them for me. It was a long drive (± 190 km) from Ragusa to Agrigento the town near the historical Greek Temples.
I got this tip from a local, you can see the historical building from the road, stop and admire them from there and visit Selinunte instead.
Is was above the 30º Celsius when I arrived in the early afternoon. I drove and stopped around the valley to admire the temples from a distance; this saved me time, walking in the heat and money! And from the road you get a good impression of the history and once most powerful city of Acragas. The Doric style Temple of Concordia was constructed 430BC and is well preserved; in the 6th century they reinforced the whole structure, which even survived earthquakes. That was not the same for the Temple of Juno, that was destroyed by an earthquake in the Middle Ages. Another temple you can spot is Temple of Hercules, so no need to enter the premises, you get a good feeling and make good pictures from the temples from the road.
Natural Highlight the Scala dei Turchi
It was already a long day, so time to find an accommodation in Realmonte (15 km West from Agrigento), close to the next highlight of my Sicilian road trip; Scala dei Turchi! This a welcoming variety, a natural highlight instead of a culture one. Scala dei Turchi is an unusual shaped white cliff with rocks shaped in a huge staircase with a sandy beach on either side. Picture perfect to see this structure facing the clear blue Mediterranean Sea, especially from the top.
Go and see this cliff a couple of times; during sunset, the next early morning during a walk (with less crowd) and when leaving Realmonte from the top of the cliff, facing down.
Where to Stay and Eat in Realmonte
I booked the accommodation B&B Mammaliturchi, Realmonte for 1 night. The location is perfect, right at the beach and within walking distance from Scala dei Turchi. Room was neat but very small, on single bed, but I was exhausted and overheated and didn’t want to look for something else. But just that you know!! There are bigger rooms as well, but be fast it is a popular accommodation.
After some chilling on the beach and cooling off in the perfect sea, I was more chill and ready for some sunset drinks and Italian food. I walked (15 min) cross the beach and park and ended up on a beach chair with a well-deserved Aperol Sprits at the Lounge Beach Scala dei Turchi. What I loved here was that you get a plate with appetizers that comes with the drink, listing to nice chill lounge music and watching the sun set behind the white rock at the same time. Time to have a great pasta at this Lounge Beach Restaurant; great setup, service and food. Feeling happy; Sicily is doing me good so far!
Visit the Park Archaeological Selinunte
From Realmonte, I continued west towards Selinunte, around 90 km away. Instead of treating it as just another driving day, I took my time along the SS115 and stopped whenever something caught my attention. In Montallegro, I found a local market and stopped for coffee with something sweet. A little further along the coast, I made another stop at Spiaggia di Piana Grande. Looking across that incredibly blue Mediterranean Sea was a good reminder that on a Sicily road trip, some of the nicest moments happen between the places you planned to visit.
Sometimes the journey really is as important as the destination. Leave some room in your Sicily itinerary for unplanned stops along the way.
My main destination that day was the Archaeological Park of Selinunte, one of the largest archaeological sites in the Mediterranean. The ancient Greek city once covered an enormous area, and today the archaeological park stretches across around 270 hectares, with temples, the Acropolis, ancient streets and fortifications spread across the landscape.
Earlier in my trip, I had seen the Valley of the Temples near Agrigento without entering the archaeological park itself, so this time I wanted to spend more time among the ruins. Selinunte immediately felt different. The site is much more spread out, and its position close to the Mediterranean makes the setting almost as impressive as the temples themselves.
Near the entrance, Temple E is one of the first structures that really catches your eye. This large Doric temple is generally associated with the goddess Hera and was reconstructed from its fallen remains during the 20th century. Standing between its huge columns gives you a much better idea of the scale than simply looking at it from a distance. From here, continue further into the park towards the Acropolis, where several other temple remains and parts of the ancient city can be explored. Selinunte is much larger than it initially appears, so do not underestimate the distances. Electric transport is available inside the park, which can be very welcome on a hot Sicilian day.
Walking between Greek temples with the Mediterranean Sea in the background made me feel as though I had somehow ended up in Greece instead of Sicily. After two days surrounded by ancient Greek history, the connection between Sicily and Greece was becoming very hard to miss.
Bring water, comfortable shoes and some sun protection. The archaeological park is large and there is much less shade than you might expect.
Where to Stay and Eat in Selinunte
I had lunch just before entering the Archeologico Park of Selinunte at Bar Enoteca. Local recommendation and must say, the mixed plater with vegetables and cheese was delicious.
My accommodation WindResort is located 25 km more west at the surf and kite beach called Spiaggia di Puzziteddu. I booked a glamping tent for two nights, at this remote place right at the beach. I loved the vibe of this place; the boardwalk, the “tent” which didn’t feel like and tent and the surroundings! Perfect place to chill, watch the sunset from your terrace and enjoy the nature around you.
Bring some basic groceries with you upon arrival, there is a small vending machine but no shop or restaurant for food. In the morning you can buy a fresh cornetti at the front desk!
I came here to surf, but I wasn’t lucky that day, there were no waves only wind. Perfect to work on my tan on the sun beds and watch the kite surfers doing their tricks. I really recommend you staying here if you like something different and enjoy the nature! If you love wind this is the place to be, perfect windy conditions to wing and kitesurf!
African Vibe in Mazara del Vallo
I could not sit still the whole day at my glamping tent and drove to Mazara del Vallo to get a coffee, lunch and do some shopping for dinner. Beforehand was not planning to visit this village, but that is what I like about this unplanned holiday, take it as it comes! In Mazara del Vallo you strongly feel the North African influence; the highest percentage of immigrants are living here. Tunisia is only 230 km away!
Next to the beautiful historical centre with the eye catcher Cattedrale del Santissimo Salvatore, the neighbourhood La Casbah is located, the old Arab quarter where you will see houses in typical Arab style and endless series of small tunnels and streets.
Inside the Casbah, there are many restaurants and taverns that serve traditional Tunisian meals, like the fish couscous. Totally different than the traditional Italian dishes, worth to try!
Heading your journey to West Sicily like me or to the Southeast Baroque route?
