In this Sicilian travel blog, I will give you tips, information and inspirations on the Northwestern part of Sicily. In this part of Sicily: you can visit the mountain medieval village of Erice, chill on the beach at this main Italian holiday destination San Vito Lo Capo and explore the Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro per boat. See below my route and tips and information on my accommodations, restaurants and places to visit in stunning Northwest Sicily!
Views in Erice
After leaving Trapani in the morning, I drove up the mountain to Erice, a medieval hilltop town around 750 meters above sea level. I took the winding road up from the eastern side in my convertible rental car. Normally I enjoy scenic mountain roads, but with the roof open and the steep drops beside me, this one actually made me nervous. I suddenly felt very exposed. On the way down, I took the SP31 on the western side, which I personally found much more comfortable to drive.
If you are not comfortable with steep and winding mountain roads, consider taking the SP31 or leave the car below and take the cable car from Trapani.
You can also reach Erice by the Trapani–Erice cable car, which takes around ten minutes and gives you panoramic views over Trapani and the Egadi Islands on the way up. Check the current timetable before you go, as opening days and hours can vary.
Erice has a completely different atmosphere from the towns along the coast. Its history goes back much further than its medieval appearance suggests, but today it is the stone-paved streets, old churches, small squares and incredible views that make it such an enjoyable place to explore.
One of the main landmarks is Castello di Venere, the Norman Castle of Venus, built on the site of an ancient sanctuary dedicated to Venus. It sits dramatically on the edge of the mountain and is surrounded by the Giardini del Balio. Walk through the gardens for some of the best views in Erice. On a clear day, you can see Trapani, the salt pans, the Egadi Islands and the coastline towards San Vito Lo Capo.
From here, simply wander through the maze of cobbled streets. Erice is compact enough to explore without much of a plan, passing churches such as Chiesa di San Giuliano, small piazzas and plenty of shops selling ceramics, local products and Sicilian sweets. And you should definitely try the dolci ericini. I stopped at the famous Pasticceria Maria Grammatico, known for traditional pastries based on old local recipes. I went for the almond cookies, which did not disappoint.
Choose the timing of your visit carefully if the views are important to you. Erice is high on the mountain and can disappear into clouds and mist. Atmospheric too, but I was happy to have sunshine for those coastal views.
After all those almond sweets, I needed something savory for lunch. Near Porta Trapani, I stopped at La Tonda Fritta for arancini. They had several different fillings, making it an easy quick lunch before getting back in the car.
From Erice, it was time to continue north towards San Vito Lo Capo. After temples, churches and medieval streets, I was more than ready for some beach time.
Relax on the Beach at San Vito Lo Capo
I didn’t want to go down on the East side of the mountain and went back to Trapani, where I took the SP20 into the bay I just saw from above. The SP20 changed into SP18 and then SP 16 all the way up to San Vito Lo Capo. You will pass immense stone rock structures of the Riserva Naturale Orientata Monte Cofano. Then I arrived at Belvedere Bue Marino, what a view over this bay with the rock in the back and the beautiful blue and turquoise waters; judge for yourself.
First things first, park my car in this busy and car free centre of San Vito. My hotel suggested to park my car at the nearby Parcheggio Fontana. That was a good suggestion, you can park outside the city centre but then you have to walk or give you keys to the people of the parking lot, which I don’t like even when it is a rental car.
San Vito Lo Capo is one of Sicily’s most popular beach destinations, and it is easy to see why. The long crescent-shaped beach has golden sand, clear turquoise water and the impressive Monte Monaco rising behind the town. During the summer months, much of the beach is filled with colorful sun loungers and umbrellas, giving San Vito Lo Capo a lively holiday atmosphere. It can get busy, but after a day of driving and exploring Erice, I was perfectly happy to join the other beach lovers and do absolutely nothing for a while.
The water is clear and inviting, and the beach slopes gently into the sea, making it an easy place for swimming and cooling off. With the mountain at one end and the bright blue Mediterranean in front of you, the setting is definitely one of the reasons San Vito Lo Capo is often mentioned among Sicily’s most beautiful beaches.
Monte Monaco is also popular for hiking and climbing, but I left that adventure to someone else. After a long day on the road, my preferred activity was considerably simpler: find a spot on the beach, swim and enjoy the last hours of sunshine.
Go local and rent one of the hundreds sun lounges and umbrella and chill among the Italian families.
Where to Stay and Eat in San Vito
I booked the lovely and very friendly accommodation of Il Mare Dentro Rooms for two nights including breakfast. The accommodation is brand new and in the centre of San Vito. The style is comfortable, luxurious, fresh and beach designed. The breakfast was very extended and well decorated. Loved this place!
Be Aware: Due to the popularity of San Vito, prices are higher than in the rest of Sicily; mainly accommodation and food.
I had a seafood pasta for dinner at U’ Spiticchiu. I was attracted by the nice seating outside, not on the busy main street but on the quieter Via Duca degli Abruzzi. The pasta was good, but it was a busy place, so service was a bit lacking, but I didn’t mind. There are uncountable restaurants and bars here in San Vito and for every budget you can get your meal; takeaway pizza’s or top-notch restaurants.
Boat Tour along the Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro
During my stay, a large part of the Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro had recently been damaged by wildfires. The reserve was temporarily closed to visitors, which was sad to see because this protected stretch of coastline is one of the most beautiful natural areas in western Sicily. Zingaro was the first nature reserve established in Sicily and stretches along the coast between San Vito Lo Capo and Scopello. One of the things that makes it so special is the absence of a coastal road. Instead, you find hiking trails, small coves, cliffs and clear Mediterranean water along an almost undeveloped coastline.
Because the reserve was closed during my visit, exploring it on foot was not possible. The alternative was to see the coastline from the sea. To be fair, spending an afternoon on a boat and jumping into that blue water was not exactly a hardship. I booked a boat trip with Escursioni San Vito Lo Capo di Leonardo Gianquinto. I chose the afternoon departure at around 14:00, which worked perfectly after a relaxed morning in San Vito Lo Capo. During my visit, there were around 20–25 people on board and plenty of space on deck to sit back and enjoy the scenery.
Most of the commentary was in Italian and not everything was translated into English for me. That was a little unfortunate, but this was one of those trips where the coastline did most of the talking anyway. From the harbor, we sailed past San Vito Lo Capo and continued east along the coast. Along the way, you pass old watchtowers and the Tonnara del Secco, a former tuna fishery that is another reminder of how closely this part of Sicily has always been connected to the sea.
The scenery becomes even more beautiful as you approach the Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro. The coastline is made up of limestone cliffs and small coves with beaches that are much easier to appreciate from the water. One of our swimming stops was near Cala dell’Uzzo, where I jumped straight into the clear blue sea. This was exactly how I had hoped to experience Zingaro. From the boat, you get a completely different perspective of the cliffs and secluded coves than you would from the hiking trail above.
We continued along the reserve towards Scopello, with its famous Faraglioni di Scopello as the furthest point of our trip. The rock formations rise dramatically from the water in front of the historic Tonnara di Scopello, creating one of the most recognizable views along this part of the Sicilian coast. Of course, that called for another swim before turning around and sailing back towards San Vito Lo Capo. We returned to the harbor at around 18:00 after roughly four hours on the water.
For me, this was an afternoon very well spent. Hiking through Zingaro would give you a completely different experience, but if you love being on the water, a boat trip is a wonderful way to see this coastline.
Check the current access conditions for the Zingaro Nature Reserve before your visit, especially during periods of extreme heat or after wildfires. If hiking is not possible, or you simply prefer the sea, boat trips from San Vito Lo Capo are a great alternative.
