In this Sicilian travel blog, I will give you tips, information and inspirations on the Western part of Sicily. In this part of Sicily: you can do a Marsala wine tasting tour, visit the salt fields between Marsala and Trapani, go kite surfing and sail to the Egadi Islands (Favignana and Levanzo) from Trapani. See below my route and tips and information on my accommodations, restaurants and places to visit in beautiful West Sicily!
Wine Tasting in Marsala
After leaving my beloved glamping tent in the South of Sicily, I continued west towards Marsala. After driving past vineyards for so many hours during my Sicily road trip, it seemed almost impossible to leave this part of the island without tasting its most famous wine.
I stopped at the family-owned Cantine Pellegrino, founded in Marsala in 1880. I arrived without a reservation and was lucky enough to get a private tour in English, starting in the more modern part of the winery before continuing into the historic cellars. Today, Pellegrino still ages its different Marsala wines in more than a thousand barrels.
Walking through the cellars gave me a much better idea of how important wine is to this part of western Sicily. The tour explained the history of the winery, the production process and the different styles of Marsala, while rows and rows of wooden barrels filled the old cellar rooms.
Marsala wine comes in different colors and levels of sweetness, and the aging process also determines its classification. So it is not simply one sweet dessert wine. During my tasting, my favorite was Uncle Joseph, an 18% Marsala Superiore Rubino Dolce. It was rich, sweet and exactly the kind of Marsala I had imagined before coming here.
Of course, I bought a bottle to take home. Marsala is also one of the ingredients I use in my traditional Italian tiramisu recipe, so this particular bottle did not just end up sitting on a shelf.
I was lucky to arrange a tour when I arrived, but I would book ahead now. Cantine Pellegrino offers several wine-tasting experiences and visits to its historic Marsala cellars throughout the year.
Visit the Salt Fields
After a wine tasting in the morning — timing is everything — I continued north along the coast towards Trapani. You can follow the coastal road through Contrada Spagnola or take the SP21. This stretch between Marsala and Trapani is known for its salt pans, old windmills and shallow lagoons, and it is definitely worth taking the slower route.
Close to Marsala, you pass the Riserva Naturale Isole dello Stagnone di Marsala, followed further north by the Saline di Trapani e Paceco. Salt has been produced along this coast for centuries, and some of the traditional salt pans are still active today. The salt from the Marsala area is even protected by a PGI quality label.
The landscape is particularly beautiful when the sun is out. Depending on the conditions, the shallow pools change from blue and white to shades of pink, with piles of salt and historic windmills scattered across the horizon. The wetlands are also an important resting place for migratory birds, so you may even spot flamingos along the way. If you have more time, you can take a short boat trip across the lagoon to Mozia, the small island that was once an important Phoenician settlement. There is an archaeological museum on the island, while around the salt pans you can learn more about the traditional salt-making process.
You will also find small shops along the route selling local sea salt and salt-related products. I could not resist taking some home — a much more useful Sicily souvenir than another fridge magnet.
Go Kite Surfing
Knowing me, I was more interested in the kitesurfing that was going on, along the coast from Marsala to Trapani. The huge shallow lagoons with flat water are perfect to learn kite surfing; that is why you can find many kite schools in this area. Nice to see all the colours of kites in the air during my drive along this coast.
It was time for a break and lunch time and stopped at this kite spot near the town of Birgi Vecchi in Lo Stagnone, just follow the kites! I parked the car and walked to Beach Club Pe’ahi. Loved this trendy and chill place; the pasta vongole was tasty too and during lunch was being entertained by the kiters which are crossing the lagoon to Isola Santa Maria. After this break I drove more north to Trapani, passing more salt production sites with flamingos and windmills.
Explore the historic center of Trapani
The main reason I traveled to Trapani was my sailing trip to the Egadi Islands, but the city itself surprised me in a good way. I expected it to be mainly a practical base for the ferry, but Trapani turned out to be much more charming than I had imagined. The historic center sits on a narrow peninsula with water on both sides, which gives the city a very open, coastal feel. Trapani has long been connected to fishing, salt production, wine and trade, and today its harbor is still an important gateway to the Egadi Islands.
During my two days here, I spent most of my late afternoons and evenings walking through the old center. This is when I liked Trapani best. The temperature was more comfortable, the streets became livelier and the waterfront was perfect for watching the sunset. Start around Porta Oscura and the Torre dell’Orologio, then continue along Corso Vittorio Emanuele, one of the main streets through the historic center. You will find shops, cafés, bars and restaurants along the way, mixed with elegant old buildings and small side streets that are easy to explore on foot.
One of the places I liked was Piazza Lucatelli, where I found several bars and live music playing during my visit. It had that relaxed evening atmosphere that makes you stay for one more drink instead of heading straight back to your hotel. Trapani may not have the grand sights of Palermo or the polished beauty of some of Sicily’s smaller towns, but I liked its easygoing atmosphere. And if you are planning to visit the Egadi Islands, it is definitely worth giving the city some time rather than treating it only as a departure point.
Sailing the Egadi Islands
I love being in and on the water, that is why I try to incorporate sailing and surfing in my holidays. I was looking forward to go on this sailing trip, which I booked in advance at Egadi a Vela. I found some good reviews on the tour, so was convinced to book. The contact with the Captain Massimo is good and the service on board was even better!
I prefer to go on a smaller sailing boat (max 10 persons) instead of the bigger boats that operate around here. I travel by myself and I experienced that the smaller boats are easier to get in contact with other passengers.
The departure of the sailing trip is at Marina Arturo Stabile within walking distance from my hotel. I was the only foreigner on the boat the rest was Italian; luckily a couple of them spoke English, which made it more fun.
We passed the smaller islands Maraone and Formica (former prison island) to one of the three main islands Favignana. The wind was perfect and even strong at some points. Due to the winds and currents we could not go to the famous Cala Rossa but sailed along the East coast passing the Labirinto di Cave, which is a result of the mining industry on the island.
Then we pass the Bue Marino; a rough coastline with rock formations from quarrying and caves. The water is perfect blue in many shades and deep clear, which I love and want to jump right in, but not now. Sailed around the corner on the South of the island, to escape the winds. A picture-perfect bay appeared right in front of me, that is why I love sailing and the water! We arrived at Cala Azzurra! Time to swim, enjoy the sun and chill on the rocks (not a real stretched sandy beach). I walked to a higher point on the rocks to get a good overview of this great spot. Judge for yourself?!
When returning to the boat after a good swim and many dives from the boat, it was time for lunch; seafood pasta and wine. I love the Italian way of living; feeling very happy at this moment! We sailed back around the same corner and the wind really picked up. This was getting a real adventure now, hard core sailing instead of chilling.
We sailed to the southern part of the second island Levanzo. Here we passed the harbour of the island and continued to the small bay of Cala Fredda; cold beach. I wanted to check if it was true, but for me the water was still warm. Swam, snorkeled and took some pictures with my GoPro camera. Mermaid Mirja was feeling in her element in these turquoise Mediterranean waters!
Time to head back to Trapani, it was a rough sail, but I loved the adventure; feeling that you are alive! We arrived around 17:30 at the same port where we departed. A perfect day including lunch and drinks. I really recommend you joining a sailing trip with the experienced Captain Massimo to the islands!
Where to Stay and Eat in Trapani
When I arrived in Trapani, I got a welcome drink from my hotel Room of Andrea Hotel; which a drank on the roof-top bar including pool! I loved this hotel, it’s very stylish, beautiful decorated with a mix of older details in a modern way. The breakfast served in centre of the palace, was extended even during these Covid-19 period. The service, cleanness of the hotel is as good as the location; next to parking place and within walking distance from the historical centre with bars and restaurants. Big recommendation for this 4-star hotel for start hotel including breakfast; lucky me I booked two nights!
In Trapani you can find many restaurants, bars, ice cream shops and coffee bars. Next to my hotel the popular Fronte Villa – Caffè e Cucina was located where I had a granita and cannolo. This was almost a whole meal; the cannolo was so filling.
One evening I had an antipasti of fish at Le Vele Ristorante Pizzeria; when in a fisher town eat fish!! I broke that rule the next evening when having a meat and cheese antipasti at La Giuditta and Dorian Gray on the lovely Piazza Lucatelli. I love the antipasti here in Italy; not too much carbs and still very tasty with a lot of proteins!!
Most restaurants and bars offer an antipasti deal including an aperitive like Aperol Spritz (±12 EUR). For me that was enough for dinner most of the time; especially after having a pasta for lunch and a good reason to get one of the delicious ice creams for dessert!
Heading your journey to Northwest Sicily like me or to the South of Sicily?
