In this Sicilian travel blog, I will give you tips, information and inspirations on the Northern part of Sicily. In this part of Sicily: drive past the dramatic beach and mountain scenery of this Tyrrhenian Coast, you can visit the coastal beach town of Cefalù and explore the area of Milazzo where you can take the boat to the Aeolian Islands too. See below my route and tips and information on my accommodations, restaurants and places to visit in North Sicily!
Drive the Scenic Tyrrhenian Coast
That morning after some beach time in Mondello near Palermo I drove for ±70km to Cefalù. This road is in the beginning not very spectacular, you will pass the greater area of Palermo, but then you come to a very nice part of the coast. I love to drive the scenic route and not the highway, you will see a lot more, but it takes time too. Make your choice of preference, you can change now and then too, that is what I did too.
To save time you can take the highway E90 instead of the scenic SS113; they can charge you toll at the end. The highways have a lot of tunnels and bridges.
On the SS113 road, you can stop next to the road at some beautiful bays and beaches. The second part on the Tyrrhenian Coast from Cefalù to Milazzo was as just as scenic as the first part. Here around the town of Tindari you can find the Santuario della Madonna del Tindari; housing the black Madonna of Tindari. From this town down you have a spectacular view down on the Riserva Naturale Orientata Laghetti di Marinello; small lakes and a long sandbar surrounded by the sparkling blue Tyrrhenian Sea.
Explore Cefalù: beach, old town and the Duomo
Cefalù is one of those places where Sicily gives you a bit of everything at once. You have a long sandy beach, a compact medieval old town, narrow streets filled with small shops and restaurants, and the impressive Duomo di Cefalù rising above the main square. Add the mountain behind the town and you get one of the most photogenic settings along the north coast of Sicily.
The historic center is easy to explore on foot. Wander through the cobbled streets towards Piazza del Duomo, where the cathedral dominates the square. Cefalù Cathedral is another beautiful example of Sicily’s Arab-Norman architecture, with impressive Byzantine mosaics inside. After seeing the mosaics in Monreale and the Cappella Palatina, I had definitely developed a soft spot for this style. The Cappella Palatina was still my favorite, though.
Bring something to cover your shoulders and knees if you want to enter the cathedral. I was only allowed into part of the church because I was not dressed appropriately.
The square in front of the Duomo is lined with cafés and restaurants and has a relaxed atmosphere, especially later in the afternoon when the heat starts to disappear. It is a good place to sit down for a coffee, granita or aperitivo before continuing through the old town. Cefalù is also a popular place to stay for a few days. Accommodation ranges from larger hotels to smaller B&Bs and apartments in and around the historic center. The streets are full of souvenir shops, gelaterias and restaurants, but the beach is never far away.
Spiaggia di Cefalù runs directly alongside the town, which makes it very easy to combine sightseeing with a few hours by the sea. Parts of the beach are occupied by private lidos, while there are also public sections where you can simply put down your towel. During my visit, it was also possible to rent an umbrella and sunbed for around €15 per day.
One of my favorite things to do here was getting out on the water. I rented an inflatable SUP board from Piranha SUP Surf School for around €15 per hour. When there are no waves to surf, paddleboarding is a perfect alternative for me.
From the water, Cefalù looks even better. You see the old town in front of you, the Duomo above the rooftops and the mountain rising behind it, while sailing boats pass across the clear blue sea. It was one of those Sicily moments where leaving the water felt like the hardest part of the day.
Where to Stay and Eat in Cefalù
Lirma B&B is a very charming Sicilian house with five rooms and a nice garden with flowers. The rooms are clean and the service is perfect. I booked only for one night, one person including a very nice extended local breakfast. The B&B is located only 50 from the beach! A real recommendation if you are lucky to have one of the five rooms in this family house. The vibe and garden are a gem close to the center of Cefalú.
FoodSicily Market: This place has the best panini’s and Italian delicacies you wish for! I went here couple of times for a good lunch panini and even shopped some pasta to bring back home. This market is located right behind the beach; perfect to get your proviant here.
In Cefalù there are many nice restaurants and places where you can get good food. I experienced no bad meals here in Sicily; all is fresh and reasonably priced. Cefalù is a touristic place and here the prices are higher than in other less touristic places; I sometimes take it easy and eat only a panini or only pasta, depends on my breakfast or lunch.
Explore Milazzo
Milazzo was not on the list to visit at first, but to complete the circle around Sicily I stopped here for one night. After my SUP adventure in Cefalù I got my bags out the B&B and drove via the SS113 and some parts E90 to Milazzo. The distance is about 150km, but there is a big difference in time between the highway (±1,5 hour) and scenic route (±3,5 hours). I changed between the two a couple of times, prefer the SS113, but it is slow and exhausting. After some nice viewpoints I ended up at the Peninsula of Milazzo. Milazzo is the main gateway to the Aeolian Islands; here you can take a tour or hydrofoil to the seven islands of the volcanic archipelago.
In the evening I strolled along the boulevard of Milazzo and the next morning I drove up the Capo Milazzo. It’s a scenic drive along the coast with amazing views where you can see the Aeolian Islands in the back. From here you can walk up and down to the Piscina di Venere or Venus Pool; where you can swim and relax at the natural pools of turquoise waters. The walk to it was stunning already; with olive trees and cactus with the colourful prickly pears (cactusvijgen in Dutch).
On the way back I passed the Castello di Milazzo; an original Greek acropolis but then an Arab-Norman citadel with a lot of history. No time to visit; heading to the lovely Taormina!!
Where to Stay and Eat in Milazzo
I booked last minute the brand new and stylish Upper Boutique Hotel near the port of Milazzo. I booked here just one night between Cefalù and Taormina. The rooms are very comfortable, mine was called the Acqua Marina and located on the fifth floor with city view. The shower was very luxurious and the breakfast on the rooftop gave me a perfect holiday feeling. The view over the port was lovely and the service even better; a big recommendation if you can stay here!
Time for some good pizza again, that is why you are in Sicily for right?! The lady from Upper Rooms recommend me to go to Doppio Zero, where they offer the best pizza in town at a modern, popular and busy restaurant.
Heading your journey to Palermo Region, Mt Etna or like me to Taormina?!
