After almost two months of traveling through South America, I was ready for the beach again. My last real beach stop had been Arica in Chile. Lake Titicaca sometimes looked almost like the sea, but for this beach girl it was time for salt water again. Huanchaco Peru is a coastal town near Trujillo where you can surf, eat fresh ceviche and see the traditional Caballitos de Totora along the beach. Chan Chan is close enough for an easy trip, and surfers can continue to Chicama for one of the most famous waves in Peru. Huanchaco is also a good stop when traveling north from Lima toward Máncora.
Why stay in Huanchaco Peru?
Huanchaco is small enough to explore on foot, with the beach and most restaurants close by. Surfers are in and out of the water throughout the day, while local fishermen still use the Caballitos de Totora along the coast. Weekends are busier when families from Trujillo come to Huanchaco for the beach, lunch and a walk along the waterfront. Children play near the water, people have lunch together and you see surfboards everywhere. I liked that Huanchaco is also a weekend destination for local families. Trujillo is nearby, but I would stay in Huanchaco if beach time is part of your trip. You can still visit Trujillo and Chan Chan easily and come back to the coast afterwards.
Getting to Huanchaco Peru
I arrived in Trujillo by overnight bus from Lima. The bus left around 10:30 PM and arrived the next morning at about 8:00 AM. For a journey of around ten hours, traveling overnight is a good option and saves a full travel day. You can compare current buses from Lima to Trujillo through 12Go. From the Trujillo bus terminal, continue by taxi or local bus to Huanchaco. I took a taxi straight to my accommodation after the night bus. Once you are in Huanchaco, you can walk to most places in town. Local buses are useful for Chan Chan and for traveling toward Chicama. My next stop was Máncora, so Huanchaco was also a good place to break up the long journey north. Spend a few days here before continuing farther along the Peruvian coast.
Check the seat category before booking a long distance bus in Peru. A good reclining seat is worth paying a little extra for when you are trying to sleep.
Things to do in Huanchaco Peru
See the Caballitos de Totora
Along Huanchaco Beach you will see the Caballitos de Totora standing upright in the sand. These narrow boats are made from totora reeds and have been used by fishermen on Peru’s northern coast for thousands of years. Local fishermen still take them into the Pacific. Spend some time on the beach and you may see them going through the waves or returning from fishing. I liked seeing the fishermen still use them instead of only seeing them lined up on the beach. Their narrow shape looks a little like a board. They were made for fishing, but they do remind me a bit of the surfboards we use today.
Go surfing in Huanchaco
Surfing is one of the main activities in Huanchaco and there are several breaks along the coast. Conditions vary, so ask a local surf school which break is best for your level before renting a board. I got to know Alejandro from Boqueron Surf School. His surf school was supported with boards and wetsuits through the Dutch Surfers for Surfers organization. Alejandro knew the local waves well and could help with the best place to surf that day. If you do not surf, spend some time on the beach and watch the surfers instead. There is usually plenty happening in the water.
Ask about the current and the best place to paddle out before entering the water. The conditions can look very different once you are in the ocean.
Eat ceviche in Huanchaco
Ceviche was already one of my favorite dishes by the time I reached northern Peru, and Huanchaco is a good place to eat it. Fresh fish is usually prepared with lime, chili, onion and coriander and served with corn, sweet potato and other simple sides. You will find seafood restaurants throughout Huanchaco. Ask local people where they like to eat instead of choosing only by online ratings. That worked well for me and led to some very good lunches. El Caribe was one of the places I liked for ceviche and seafood and is still a restaurant I would check for lunch in Huanchaco.
I prefer eating ceviche for lunch, when the fish is fresh and you still have the afternoon for a walk or some beach time.
Walk along the pier and up to Iglesia de Huanchaco
Leave some time for a walk along the waterfront and around the pier. Weekends are more lively, with families from Trujillo, food vendors and surfers coming and going.
For a wider view over Huanchaco, walk uphill toward Iglesia de Huanchaco. The white church with red details stands above town and from here you can look back toward the beach and the Pacific. It is an easy walk to add at the end of the afternoon.
Surfing Chicama Peru
Chicama was high on my list because I surf goofy. The wave is known for the world’s longest left hand wave and attracts surfers from all over the world. I was already in the area, so of course I wanted to surf here too. Getting there by public transport takes some time. First take a bus from Huanchaco into Trujillo and change there for Puerto Malabrigo, the small town next to Chicama. Allow around two to two and a half hours for the trip.
Tell the driver you are going to Puerto Malabrigo or Chicama and ask where you need to change. It saves a lot of guessing in Trujillo.
The landscape around Chicama is very dry and sandy, and Puerto Malabrigo itself is small. The village itself is not spectacular and I would mainly come here for the surf. Strong offshore wind picked up in the afternoon during my stay. This is also one of the reasons the wave can stay so clean, although it can make paddling harder. I even saw kite surfers farther out in the bay. My suggestion is to stay two or three nights if Chicama is important to you. You have a better chance of getting good surf conditions and you do not have to travel several hours back to Huanchaco after a surf session.
Where to stay in Chicama
Puerto Malabrigo has several accommodations aimed at surfers. I stayed at Hotel Sueños de Chicama because it was Easter weekend, a surf competition was taking place and many places were fully booked. For several nights I would choose a little more comfort now. Chicama Boutique Hotel is one of the places you can check because it is close to the surf and has more facilities than a basic surf stay. Los Delfines de Chicama is another option worth comparing. If surfing Chicama is an important part of your trip, stay in Puerto Malabrigo instead of traveling there every day from Huanchaco.
Visit Chan Chan Peru from Huanchaco
Chan Chan is easy to visit from Huanchaco. The former capital of the Chimú kingdom was built mainly from adobe and looks completely different from the Inca sites around Cusco, Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley. Look closely at the walls while walking around. You can still see patterns of fish, birds and geometric shapes in the adobe. I especially liked seeing all these details in the walls.
Chan Chan is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and conservation work continues because the adobe is easily damaged by weather and erosion. From Huanchaco, you can take a local bus or taxi. I used local transport and asked where I needed to get off.
Go earlier in the day and bring water, sunscreen and a hat. There is not much shade around the archaeological site.
Where to stay in Huanchaco Peru
Stay close enough to the beach to walk to restaurants and surf schools. If you prefer a quieter stay, check the location and recent reviews before booking, especially for weekends. You can choose a quieter private room or small hotel. Hotel Bracamonte is one place you can check. It is close to the beach and has a garden and swimming pool, which gives you some extra comfort after a day outside. Check current rooms and recent guest reviews through Booking.com and Expedia before choosing. Decide if you want the social atmosphere of a surf hostel or prefer a smaller and quieter place to stay.
Where to eat in Huanchaco Peru
Besides ceviche, Chocolate Cafe was one of my favorite places for breakfast, coffee and lighter food. It is a good option when you want something different from another seafood meal. For ceviche, you should try El Caribe. Ask people locally where they like to eat. This gave me some good restaurant tips during my stay in Huanchaco. After several days of ceviche, there are enough Western options to choose from. Sometimes when traveling, you just want something different.
How many days do you need in Huanchaco Peru?
Allow two or three days if you want time for Huanchaco, the beach and a visit to Chan Chan without rushing. If you surf, stay longer because the surf conditions can change from day to day. For Chicama, you can add another two or three nights. Staying there gives you more time to wait for good conditions and avoids traveling back and forth from Huanchaco.
Huanchaco or Chicama?
Choose Huanchaco if you want a mix of surfing, beach time, restaurants and culture. Chan Chan is close, Trujillo is nearby and there is more happening around town. Choose Chicama if surfing is the main reason for your trip. Puerto Malabrigo is smaller and quieter and most surfers come here for the wave.
FAQs about Huanchaco Peru
Is Huanchaco Peru worth visiting?
Yes, especially if you are traveling north along Peru’s coast. Huanchaco is a good stop between Lima and Máncora and gives you a few days for the beach, surfing, Caballitos de Totora and Chan Chan before continuing farther north.
Can beginners surf in Huanchaco Peru?
Yes, but take a lesson and ask about the conditions before going into the water. Huanchaco has different surf breaks and a local surf school can help you choose one for your level.
How do you get from Huanchaco Peru to Chan Chan?
Chan Chan is close to Huanchaco and can be reached by local bus or taxi. A taxi is easier, while local transport is cheaper and works well if you are comfortable asking where to get off.
Let Me Inspire You Takeaways
Huanchaco is a good stop between Lima and Máncora when you want a few days by the ocean and also want to see something of the area. Walk around town, see the fishermen with their Caballitos de Totora, surf if the conditions are good and visit Chan Chan. If you surf, add Chicama instead of trying to do it as a long day trip. Stay a few nights so you have more chance of good conditions. For accommodation, I would choose a quieter private room or small hotel now. I like some comfort after a full day outside, so check the recent reviews, location and photos before booking.
Where are you heading next?
Continue north to Máncora for more beach time, warmer water and another surf stop along the Peruvian coast. Traveling north from Lima? Start with my Miraflores Lima guide for where to stay, things to do and my lunch at Restaurant Central before continuing toward Trujillo and Huanchaco.
